anura
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Post by anura on Nov 14, 2024 21:37:15 GMT -5
Has anyone used a 3d printed base for your heads? I'd love to see how they turned out! pros? cons? give me rundown!
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Post by hotdiggitydog on Nov 15, 2024 1:23:28 GMT -5
Hi there! I have a friend named California Kemono who sells 3D printed Kemono bases on etsy. I've seen their process and can give a general background.
Pros are that it can last a lot longer compared to foam. Since it's a hard plastic it shouldn't deteriorate and is pretty durable.
Big con is if you don't have a background in 3D modeling, it might be hard if you want a custom look. There are many models you can get from etsy for a price.
3D printing, with the knowledge I have, is more a less a trial and error learning experience. To get a good printed base, it might take multiple prints before you're satisfied. The printer can have errors or human error will cause that.
Once printed some cleanup is required, like the scaffolding leaving bits and pieces that makes your print rough. Some plastic around edges might need treatment also. Using a heat gun (not too much, the plastic can melt) and some kind of scraper for plastic can help this process.
When you start gluing fur onto the base, you'll need to do some extra steps. Since plastic doesn't hold glue very well, you will need to sand the surface of the plastic so the glue can grip onto something, it's like using a porous foam.
Again I have a general understanding of 3D printing and fursuit making in general, but check out my friend whenever you have a chance!
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butterball
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Post by butterball on Nov 15, 2024 3:11:36 GMT -5
Butterball 2.0 is on a 3D printed Fuzzbutt Fursuits base. My friend skdaffle's fursuit (pictured here giving Butterball 3.0 a wedgie) that I also made is also on a Fuzzbutt base. Things I learned: This one actually got MUCH hotter than 1.0 for some reason, and 1.0 was an upholstery foam bucket head that touched right up against my face because I had no idea what I was doing. I have two theories as to why this is. Either the plastic doesn't let heat escape as well as foam does (yes, even with ventilation holes), or the fact there was a lot of empty space between my mouth and the head's mouth meant there was a lot of empty space in front of my face for hot air to hang around, compared to 1.0's where I was breathing directly out the mouth hole. 3.0 is less hot than 2.0 but hotter than 1.0 so maybe it's a combination of the two, because 3.0 is hollow and made of EVA foam.
Hot glue weakens magnets. Use superglue or glue down something that holds the magnet down; just don't let the magnet get hot. This isn't something unique to 3D printed headbases, I guess, but it's something I learned while I was doing these particular suits  Don't use a heavy nose, especially if the head is long. Her silicone nose from DVC weighs down the end of the upper jaw and this compromises the moving jaw action. Furring these things is so easy if your character's design is symmetrical like Butterball's is (aside from her nose spots, anyway). You can be absolutely certain that you can get away with only taping down one side and just mirroring it when you're cutting out your fabric.
But ladder stitching things like eyebrows, hair, or teeth onto the head after the rest of the fur is glued on is a little more difficult than it would be on a foam head. because the foam can smush out of the way of the needle, but plastic cannot. If you have any places that you're going to stitch on extra details after you glue the fur on, make sure there's no glue under that particular patch of fabric.
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anura
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Post by anura on Nov 15, 2024 12:24:46 GMT -5
Hi there! I have a friend named California Kemono who sells 3D printed Kemono bases on etsy. I've seen their process and can give a general background. Pros are that it can last a lot longer compared to foam. Since it's a hard plastic it shouldn't deteriorate and is pretty durable. Big con is if you don't have a background in 3D modeling, it might be hard if you want a custom look. There are many models you can get from etsy for a price. 3D printing, with the knowledge I have, is more a less a trial and error learning experience. To get a good printed base, it might take multiple prints before you're satisfied. The printer can have errors or human error will cause that. Once printed some cleanup is required, like the scaffolding leaving bits and pieces that makes your print rough. Some plastic around edges might need treatment also. Using a heat gun (not too much, the plastic can melt) and some kind of scraper for plastic can help this process. When you start gluing fur onto the base, you'll need to do some extra steps. Since plastic doesn't hold glue very well, you will need to sand the surface of the plastic so the glue can grip onto something, it's like using a porous foam. Again I have a general understanding of 3D printing and fursuit making in general, but check out my friend whenever you have a chance! I will check them out, thanks! I have 3d printers, and some experience in making things, so all I need is to find a good base to make, I think? ^^ |
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anura
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Post by anura on Nov 15, 2024 12:25:10 GMT -5
Butterball 2.0 is on a 3D printed Fuzzbutt Fursuits base. My friend skdaffle's fursuit (pictured here giving Butterball 3.0 a wedgie) that I also made is also on a Fuzzbutt base. Things I learned: This one actually got MUCH hotter than 1.0 for some reason, and 1.0 was an upholstery foam bucket head that touched right up against my face because I had no idea what I was doing. I have two theories as to why this is. Either the plastic doesn't let heat escape as well as foam does (yes, even with ventilation holes), or the fact there was a lot of empty space between my mouth and the head's mouth meant there was a lot of empty space in front of my face for hot air to hang around, compared to 1.0's where I was breathing directly out the mouth hole. 3.0 is less hot than 2.0 but hotter than 1.0 so maybe it's a combination of the two, because 3.0 is hollow and made of EVA foam.
Hot glue weakens magnets. Use superglue or glue down something that holds the magnet down; just don't let the magnet get hot. This isn't something unique to 3D printed headbases, I guess, but it's something I learned while I was doing these particular suits Don't use a heavy nose, especially if the head is long. Her silicone nose from DVC weighs down the end of the upper jaw and this compromises the moving jaw action. Furring these things is so easy if your character's design is symmetrical like Butterball's is (aside from her nose spots, anyway). You can be absolutely certain that you can get away with only taping down one side and just mirroring it when you're cutting out your fabric.
But ladder stitching things like eyebrows, hair, or teeth onto the head after the rest of the fur is glued on is a little more difficult than it would be on a foam head. because the foam can smush out of the way of the needle, but plastic cannot. If you have any places that you're going to stitch on extra details after you glue the fur on, make sure there's no glue under that particular patch of fabric.
this is all very useful information, i really appreciate your input ^^ <3 |
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mxbird
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Post by mxbird on Nov 16, 2024 17:36:48 GMT -5
i don't have any input in terms of making a suit/head with a 3D base,
BUUUUT as someone who primarily wears a suit with a 3D printed head:
it is light and very well ventilated. i generally prefer wearing heads made of a 3D printed base!!
i am always super worried about it banging on something too hard and breaking, however. i would be super worried about taking it on a plane, etc, where it could get shoved and cracked, so i don't travel with it unless i am driving.
i don't know how likely it actually is to break, but it's just something i'm always super aware of |
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SPYRO
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Post by SPYRO on Nov 16, 2024 18:21:43 GMT -5
My bf and I are fursuit makers who have worked with 2 different types of 3D printed headbases so far!
The one I used was sourced from Fuzzbutt fursuits, and it was HEAVY AS ALL HELL. It needed to be fitted pretty tightly to the head in order to support its own weight, and I didnt like how the moving jaw poked at your throat under your chin a bit. On the upside, it was a fleece faced suit, so the 3D printing made it perfectly symmetrical and the fleece laid nice and flat on it
But my partner recently got a Ligris Cybernetics cat headbase and it is SO, SO, SO much lighter. All the same pros, AND lightweight. 1000% recommend
I really want to work with a TPU 3D printed headbase soon, I recommend looking into those if you want a flexible/squishy 3D print!
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Nov 24, 2024 21:03:11 GMT -5
Nov 24, 2024 21:03:11 GMT -5